The Lovage

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Food & Wine Magazine, July 2017: The Capri, Marfa

Once wasn’t enough. Last winter over negronis at I Sodi, I had the privilege of meeting Virginia Lebermann and Rocky Barnette, owner and chef of the Capri, their restaurant in an old adobe in Marfa, Texas, and in them I found such inspiration, humor and creativity that I was instantly hooked. I wrote about them for T Magazine and then again for this month’s Food & Wine Magazine–a story about going there, seeing and feeling their world, their gorgeous oasis in the pink dessert. And yet with subjects like Virginia and Rocky, who are evolving and perpetually raising the bar of excellence for their oeuvre, there’s always more to say.

Having a story in Food & Wine feels like such a milestone…in huge part because of how proud it makes my mother, and let’s face it, what more motivation is there than to make our mothers proud?

I made new friends on this assignment, not least of all in astounding photographer Douglas Friedman and set designer Sean Daley, who along with Virginia made Capri the mauve, turquoise and indigo haven that it is. Everything about this job made me basque in how lucky I am to get to write about kitchen artists and people who love to eat and create thoughtful, well-sourced food.

Here it is: